We headed out to Rick Steve’s (my new hero) favorite Italian hill town, Civita di Bagnoregio. Civita is perched atop a volcanic extrusion.
In the Middle Ages it was a booming city, with Bagnoregio as its suburb. A saddle of land connected the two towns. Over time Bagnoregio replaced Civita as the major town. The land saddle eroded away. Today Civita is a dying town. There are only two native residents. Maria and her husband are 82 and 90. To enter Civita you must drive through Bangaregio to the base of the pedestrian bridge that connects the two towns. As you cross the bridge, the wind can be brutal.
Civita is a picture of the Middle Ages. We wandered the streets passing the old wells, laundry area and palaces. In the church, which was a basilica for ages, there is a crucifix that is unique. Jesus’ eyes follow you as you move. It is said that Jesus looks alive from the front, in agony from the left and dead from the right. I agreed. It was haunting.
There is an excellent Civic Museum with an ancient olive press, wine casks, an old Roman well and many farming and household implements, as well as ceramics. We saw Maria near her home, but by the time we came out of the museum, she had left. I would have liked to talk with her.
Rick and I both loved visiting this incredible little town. It will be one of our best memories of Italy.
What a little jewel to be found there! I love those old places where almost no one goes. It looks amazing!
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