Today we headed north of Il Poggio to two hill towns. One famous for its Vino Nobile wine and the other for its pecorino cheese. Montepulciano was our first stop. This town is located atop a hill with beautiful views from all directions.
We made our way through the city gate and found ourselves in Piazza Grande. You are able to climb the clock tower of the Palazzo Comunale, but we did not give that a try. Instead, we tried to find a restaurant for lunch. Many were not open yet. We still don’t have the Italian eating schedule down yet. One spot was open and we had a Crostoni and a glass of Vino Nobile, the local wine.
We walked the length of the town admiring the architecture and sights. The Duomo had a plain brick façade. The town ran out of money before they could attach the intended marble façade.. However, the interior of the church is very beautiful. After taking a look at the fortress on the far end of town, we headed on to Pienza.
Pienza was the hometown of Pope Pius II. It was redone in Renaissance style by the Pope. This town is a delight to stroll through with its meandering streets and many shops/ The streets smell of pecarino cheese, a cheese made from sheeps’ milk. We had a gelato and looked at things we wanted to buy.
We took a drive through the mountains to see Radicafino up close. We can see this structure atop a mountain from Il Poggio. A gentleman told us that a road past it connects with SS2, so we gave it a chance. The drive was lovely through canopies of cypress trees. At one point, there was a sign to put on chains in snow.
Our last dinner in Tuscany was at the little restaurant just off the property. Ruth loves the chicken they prepare in lots of butter!
Today we headed north of Il Poggio to two hill towns. One famous for its Vino Nobile wine and the other for its pecorino cheese. Montepulciiano was our first stop. This town is located atop a hill with beautiful views from all directions.
We made our way through the city gate and found ourselves in Piazza Grande. You are able to climb the clock tower of the Palazzo Comunale, but we did not give that a try. Instead, we tried to find a restaurant for lunch. Many were not open yet. We still don’t have the Italian eating schedule down yet. One spot was open and we had a Crostoni and a glass of Vino Nobile, the local wine. We walked the length of the town admiring the architecture and sights. The Duomo had a plain brick façade. The town ran out of money before they could attach the intended marble façade.. However, the interior of the church is very beautiful. After taking a look at the fortress on the far end of town, we headed on to Pienza.
Pienza was the hometown of Pope Pius II. It was redone in Renaissance style by the Pope. This town is a delight to stroll through with its meandering streets and many shops/ The streets smell of pecarino cheese, a cheese made from sheeps’ milk. We had a gelato and looked at things we wanted to buy.
We took a drive through the mountains to see Radicafino up close. We can see this structure atop a mountain from Il Poggio. A gentleman told us that a road past it connects with SS2, so we gave it a chance. The drive was lovely through canopies of cypress trees. At one point, there was a sign to put on chains in snow.
Our last dinner in Tuscany was at the little restaurant just off the property. Ruth loves the chicken they prepare in lots of butter!
We headed out to Rick Steve’s (my new hero) favorite Italian hill town, Civita di Bagnoregio. Civita is perched atop a volcanic extrusion.
In the Middle Ages it was a booming city, with Bagnoregio as its suburb. A saddle of land connected the two towns. Over time Bagnoregio replaced Civita as the major town. The land saddle eroded away. Today Civita is a dying town. There are only two native residents. Maria and her husband are 82 and 90. To enter Civita you must drive through Bangaregio to the base of the pedestrian bridge that connects the two towns. As you cross the bridge, the wind can be brutal.
Civita is a picture of the Middle Ages. We wandered the streets passing the old wells, laundry area and palaces. In the church, which was a basilica for ages, there is a crucifix that is unique. Jesus’ eyes follow you as you move. It is said that Jesus looks alive from the front, in agony from the left and dead from the right. I agreed. It was haunting.
There is an excellent Civic Museum with an ancient olive press, wine casks, an old Roman well and many farming and household implements, as well as ceramics. We saw Maria near her home, but by the time we came out of the museum, she had left. I would have liked to talk with her.
Rick and I both loved visiting this incredible little town. It will be one of our best memories of Italy.
Because we are running out of clothes, we took a trip to the laundromat in Chiusi. First we hit the market, which was is Old Chiusi. We bought asparagus, garlic, tomatoes, a yellow pepper, a jalapeno pepper and an onion for a dinner at home, picking up chicken and bread at the supermarket in town. Ruth decided to pass on the live eels.
We saw lots in interesting items to purchase, including salted sardines in big cans, several types of dried fish and, of course, the live eels.
Today was the first bright and sunny and Tuscan warm day!!
We came home and had a glass of wine on our porch looking across at Celle sul Rigo, our village.
Our kitty friend kept us company, purring up a storm just because we were sitting there with her. Want to bring her home!
May 15
Our big train day! We taxied to Termini Station and found a gentleman who helped us figure out the train arrival system. Confusing when you have not done it before. Another man in “uniform” whisked up our luggage and took us right to the door of our train compartment, loaded our luggage in our pointed out our seats. As Rick was tipping him, he told us the fee was 5 Euros. I say it was the best 5 Euros spent on our trip so far. Termini is so huge, we had visions of the train leaving without us on it! We had a pleasant ride to Chiusi with a Catholic priest who Ruth enjoyed chatting with. At Chiusi we found we had an upgrade from a Ford Focus to a cute little Fiat. Fun for Rick to drive manual again!
A short drive through some beautiful countryside (in the rain) took us to our agriturismo, Il Poggio which is located in the village of Celle sul Rigo. Il Poggio is a working farm that provides meat, vegetables and flowers for the restaurant. One may also take horseback lessons or ride here. We are on top of a hill in the rolling Tuscan hills. Ruth had visions of relaxing by the pool in the Tuscan sun, but it is raining and has been raining for weeks here. The forecast is more rain. Highly unusual May weather the locals say. Our room, Bandite, is like a little mountain cabin. We are on the second floor and have sweeping views of the countryside.
The main building is really beautiful. The dining room overlooks the two pools and the countryside, with gardens all around.
We can hear the pigeons and doves cooing on the tile roof all day. Walking the grounds, we came across chickens and a mother pig with her babies. There is an old farmhouse with an ancient barn on the property.
We walked to the end of the property and found a little restaurant. Checked it out with a glass of house vino while watching the Montecarlo race on a big plasma TV. Planning to have dinner there tonight.
Il Poggio really is a special place!
May 17 ~ Day Trip to Montalcino
Today we hit the Tuscan road for our first day trip.
We drove north to Montalcino, a small hill town between Celle sul Rigo (the village that Il Poggio is in) and Siena. Montalcino has an old fortress and is famous for its Brunello (the Brunette) wine. We parked near the church and the city wall and walked up the large staircase to the city street leading to the Fortress.
We had a great salad with all kinds of interesting goodies and a glass of Brunello at the Enoteca at the Fortress. Checked into the price of a bottle…55 Euros…too much for us….but it sure was a good one! As we were leaving, a heavy rain began. And our camera battery quit, so we could not get photos from atop the Fortess, which was really ncat. We ran back to our car, where our rain coats, umbrella and tennis shoes were, of course. Headed back to Celle sul Rigo, but missed the correct road.
We made it back via a beautiful mountain road. Once we figured out where the heck we were, we enjoyed the alternate route. We stopped in San Casciano dei Bagni, our neighboring town for a gelato. It is really a cute place with interesting architecture. They have thermal spas there (bagni), but we did not have time for a stop there today.
